Saturday, November 28, 2009

I LEAVE WHEN!?!?!?

Well, surprise of my life today: I had for 3 months been under the impression that I leave Sunday November 29th when in fact I leave the 28th---TOMORROW.



Now, I had thought I was leaving on the morning of the 29th so leaving the 28th at 11pm really isnt that big of a difference. But it did change one thing: I leave tomorrow. And when tomorrow is here, I leave today.



Tomorrow will probably be one of my busiest days in Cambodia--even busier than at the VERY beginning when I was all over the place for a week. I'm going to lunch with friends, going to the orphanage, saying goodbye to students, goodbye dinner, I promised 248 people I'd "swing by" to say bye to them. But I ride a bicycle. And they don't live close to each other. So I imagine I'll be doing a lot of running around all over Siem Reap.



Saying goodbye to CLFCA today was surprisingly okay. I had thought that they would be the ones who would be really hard to say bye to. I brought my ipod with a music player I bought a couple days ago, along with a huge bag of flashcards, paper, pens, books, games, some cups, spoons, ice cream, and sprinkles the day was perfect. I got a few adorable presents--a couple new bracelets, some earrings, a basket, and some paper trinkets--but the coolest present came from Heng: he made me a statue of Buddha. I was so, so so in shock! They take forever to make. hah I was so in shock, in fact, that I lunged at him with a hug. Mid-lunge I remembered that that's totally not okay in Khmer culture but it was too late. After an awkward kinda hug/handshake/awkwardness I thanked him and we talked for a half hour about education and Cambodia and life in the United States.



Tonight after school at KHK I went to get sweets after school with Bunleap, Thea, and one of Bunleap's friends. It was, as always, very nice, but the sweet that they ordered me literally was beans, coconut milk, and ice. I had forgotten to ask for no ice. Like a good guest, I sucked it up and ate it--ice and all. So, we'll see if my stomach makes it through the night. Cross your fingers!



Bunleap insisted on paying because "You help my country, I buy you sweets." After CLFCA, before my class at KHK, Thea and I went on his moto to the nearest internet cafe where we made him an e-mail address and skype account. I gave my e-mail to a million people--Sreyneath (one of my brightest students at KHK) promise me that she'd e-mail me soon......even though she doesn't have internet or an e-mail account. She's adorable. It was really hard leaving Kanara. She and I've been teaching together for about 2 months. My first impression of her was off of her knowing very basic english..thinking to myself "why in the hell is this lady teaching these kids?" But knowing her now, she's one of the most beautiful ladies I've ever met. We became really close and were even a little teary leaving..I bought her a new eraser, some markers, and gave her the rest of my number and alphabet flash cards. Also, I ran into Sophannara (who I had sucessfully avoided since I stopped teaching with him). We awkwardly talked for a little while and set up a time to meet tomorrow. I'm gonna burn him a CD of some good songs that our kids can sing along to. I'm also gonna try to record my voice as one track saying goodbye to the class. I think they'd REALLY love that.



After going out with the guys (and awkwardly running into Li at school. haha), I went downtown to say bye to my tuktuk driver friends I play cards with every weekend and 4 or 5 friends. Gave them all my e-mail address. Stopped by the Warehouse to say bye to Sony and T..unfortunately Sony had taken the night off so I just wrote him a letter. Was super bummed he wasn't there. He's on my "I'll try to stop by tomorrow if I have time" list. On my way home I grabbed some of my favorite 62 cent noodles and a carton of "Tropical Juices". And, here I sit in my room still in shock that I'm leaving tomorrow. I don't have any "one more day"s left!!!

"Kgnom awt chong douv tror lop Amerique...chong muoy ah tet teit!"

Friday, November 13, 2009

The Countdown Begins

Well, today is Friday the 13th. I leave the 15th for Thailand. I return to Cambodia the 22nd. I leave for the USA the 29th. After today, I have 5 more days of teaching. !??!?!?!?

I can't believe that my trip is coming to an end!! I know that Thailand is gonna be a blast......but I can't believe I'm missing one of the LAST weeks I have here!!

About Thailand, I've been actually pretty nervous! It'll be the most rustic trip I've ever been on. Laos was pretty glamerous, Cambodia has been comfortable, Thailand is going to be straight up hard. Check this out:

Itinerary
Day 1-2 Bangkok
As congested, polluted and hectic as it is, Bangkok has plenty of appeal. With towering skyscrapers pressed up against Chinese shop-houses and brand-new Mercedes squeezing past vendors with pushcarts, this is a city of distinct contrasts. Culture fiends will delight in the dazzling Grand Palace and the city’s countless pagodas, while shoppers could spend weeks sifting through Bangkok’s malls and open-air markets. Entertainment ranges from highbrow (classical Thai music concerts) to low (transvestite revues) with everything in between. Dining options are equally varied. Whether you’re eating French cuisine in a plush hotel restaurant or sampling fried crickets on the side of the road, prepare to have all of your senses engaged. This is the place to eat, drink and be merry. Travellers will be arriving at all times today so there are no activities arranged. Please try to arrive by 6pm for an important group meeting where you can meet the tour leader and the other group members. You have the day free to relax and adjust to the frenetic pace and humid heat of Bangkok.

On Day 2 we can have an optional visit to Wat Po, home of the giant reclining Buddha or your tour leader can arrange a longtail boat to explore the canals of Bangkok. You have free time after until we head off to the railway station in the evening to board our sleeper train to Chiang Mai. This train journey is 13.5 hours

Day 3 Chiang Mai
We arrive in the early morning and have free time to explore for the rest of the day. In the early evening, we can arrange an optional visit to the famous temple complex of Doi Suthep, about a 45 minute drive from the center of the city. Surrounded by rolling hills, Chiang Mai offers both pretty surroundings and old style architecture. Enclosed by a moat and crumbling walls, the old city features great cafes, shops and accommodations. An important Buddhist centre since the 14th century, Chiang Mai is home to more than 300 temples. Many visitors come here to attend meditation retreats, massage classes or yoga lessons. It is also a centre of handicraft production, with a long history of silverwork, woodcarving, pottery-making and weaving. Not to be missed is the Night Bazaar, a series of covered markets, shops and stalls that offer the best selection of handicrafts in Thailand.

Day 4-6 Hilltribe Trek
From Chiang Mai, we start a 3 day hilltribe trek where we visit various hilltribe minority groups, each with their own language, clothing and religion. We will get the opportunity to ride an elephant (approx 2 hours) and test our rafting skills while bamboo rafting.We walk approximately 4-5 hours each day along sloping hills and valleys. We leave our big packs in storage and take an overnight bag. Each person is required to be able to carry their own pack as our porters will be carrying food and water supplies. Accommodation is group share, where you will be sleeping on the floor of the village huts. Toilet and washing facilities are very basic in most of the villages so be prepared to rough it for a few days. During the trek simple food is provided for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It can be cold during the evenings so make sure you have some lightweight warm clothes with you. It is possible to rent trekking gear in Chiang Mai before the trek in case you have forgotten to pack something vital. We return back to Chiang Mai in the late afternoon of Day 6.

Day 7 Chiang Mai
Free time in Chiang Mai to do any last minute shopping or sightseeing before boarding an overnight train back to Bangkok. This train journey is approximately 13.5 hours.

Day 8 Bangkok
Arrive back into Bangkok at about 8am where the trip finishes and everyone is free to depart from the train station.

"be prepared to rough it for a few days"...

But, this really is gonna be a great adventure! AND my first day in Bangkok I arrive in the morning so that Marcia and I can spend the day together visiting the sites! She'll be there just for about two days on her way back home to Saipan from Siem Reap. That's gonna be too fun!

So, I guess I am pretty stoked for the trip. And everyone who goes on these trips speaks English so I ancicipate meeting some pretty awesome people. It'll still be weirdly hard to leave Cambodia even for the week, though. But, another volunteer whose name I don't know yet arrives on the 15th (the day I leave) so my kids won't ever have a day without a teacher there..which gives me peace of mind.

My students and orphans have begun giving me extra hugs and little presents. So far, I have 3 letters, 2 little things where you fold paper and cut shapes out, then unfold it and it's a pretty pattern, 1 head covering scarf, 1 Christmas ornament, 1 pair of earrings, 1 bracelet, 2 origami hearts, and countless hearts and flowers made out of pipe cleaners. I've taped most of them up on a wall in my room--I think I'll make a bulletin board that I can take to UGA. :)

All these presents have me thinking about what I want to give them before I go. I think for CLFCA I'll print out pictures of either me and them or them with their friends. I don't think they really have pictures of themselves--I'm sure they don't have cameras. I've gotten to know each of the students well enough, too, to write them each a short letter to go along with the picture. I also hope to see something cool in Thailand that I can buy in bulk for cheap for them.

I haven't gotten to know my students at KHK as well...I've moved around classes a couple times and students are in and out constantly. So, instead of something personal, I thought I'd get them all something goofy...don't know what yet. And for the ones who I have gotten to know, maybe try to write them a message in Khmer (hah) and give them my e-mail address. Most of the kids at KHK have access to a computer with internet.

As hard as it will be to leave Cambodia, I think I will be ready. I'd love to come back sometime in the future, but for the time being I feel like I've done my part. Of course, I'm sure all this will change on my last two or three days. It will be really weird to be home.

School time!

"Kgnom douv bong reein kong kmeng robuk kgnom! Kgnom meein pram t'nigh teit bong reein!"

Sunday, November 8, 2009

Beatocello

Well, back down to just one now.
Val left Saturday morning for Vietnam--good luck, Val!! Cambodia misses you!

Earlier, though, as I was on my way to breakfast Friday morning, I met an American couple, Anthony and Theresa Chang, who had just arrived to the hotel. They had been to Vietnam before during the Vietnam War, and they're back to see how SE Asia has changed and become more peaceful. They seemed super interested in my teaching so I told them that they're more than welcome at Khmer Help Khmer, and that there would even be a couple classes that they could jump in on!

We ate breakfast together the next morning (so that's Saturday morning) and these two are so inspiring!! They asked me questions about my work, Cambodia, homesickness, whether or not I think my generation is lazy, what it means to be an American--everything!

In our talking, too, I mentioned how I would give anything to bring a student home to the US with me to show him/her around the country; we'd go to DC, see some natural wonders, go to a baseball game! I would literally pay for the plane ticket, drive to any airport anywhere, spend a month with him/her! I would love soo much to show my country!

And this is where it gets crazy: Theresa and Anthony were like, "Well, let's do it! First we'd need to have someone represent the student at the US Embassy in Phnom Penh. We can write some letters..we know some influential people in the US who could contact the embassy, too. Do you have a student in mind?" and I mean, I was completly speechless--I guess I'm just a dreamer and I hadn't ever thought about this really happening!!




The student who comes to mind is, of course, Sa Vin, one of the smartest students I have at CLFCA. But it's so hard for non westerners to come to the United States. Sophannara used to tell me about the dozens of trips he's made to the Embassy trying to get a visa, but every time they just laugh at him because he's completely dirt poor. But, if you have Americans who are pushing for someone to get a visa, I think it's a whole different story.

So, Anthony, Teresa, and I are going to keep in touch about this. I really have no idea exactly how this would happen: but nothing's impossible!

After my morning conversation about Sa Vin and all of this, I was completely inspired for the rest of the day. I looked up a bunch of information about Visa requirements, fees we'd have to raise money for, there's an endless to do list!

The three of us also went to a concert in the evening. I got in the tuk tuk thinking we were going to some free concert like the one Val, Ta, and I went to. But I got there and realized---it was a classical cello concert!!





It was actually really great, though. This is the man, Beat Richner, who opened 4 Children's Hospitals in Cambodia, 3 in Phnom Penh, 1 in Siem Reap (I bicycle past it twice every day). The hospitals are completely free for children 12 and under--and they save 85,000 lives every year. Beat would play a song then talk, play then talk, and I learned some really sombering facts:


65% of Cambodians (all ages) have tuberculosis


85% of Cambodians make 50 cents a day


JEV (Japanese Encephalitus Virus) Vaccinations aren't allowed in Cambodia


Until 1992 most modern vaccines weren't brought to Cambodia because it was thought that because the people are so uneducated, they wouldn't understand how to administer medications

Beat said something, too, that I really liked: "The high mortality rate of the poor is not caused because of poverty. The mortality rate is caused by discrimination against the poor."

The hospital is not only free for all children 12 and under, but families who have to travel very far to get to the hospital are also compensated money for gasoline. The hospital delivers about 50 babies a day, performs 60 surgeries, and has lowered its mortality rate from 6% to 0.5% in just 17 years. And, no child is rejected.

Basically, I have an entirely new appreciation for the hospital. There are lines a mile long every day--families with sick children waiting for their number to be called. What an incredible thing Beat is doing.

The free cello concert is something that he started years ago in order to raise money for the hospital. 2 million dollars are donated every year by Cambodian government, 3 million by swiss government (Beat is from Switzerland), and the rest is private donations. It costs around 80 million every year. His cello concerts, alone, raise 8 million each year. I just thought his story was very incredible. And I bought his classical cello CD to study to in college. :)

It's now Monday morning. Also, my mom's cousin (making her my second cousin?), Marcia, came to Cambodia yesterday. It was so nice to spend the afternoon with family!! We went to the artisan center and hopefully the orphanage soon once the kids are back from a their Phnom Penh field trip. She's gonna join me at school one day during her stay--all the visitors I've brought to school always love it!



So, I guess one isn't the loneliest number afterall!

I have one week left before Thailand, then I'll be there from Sunday to Sunday, and then my last week in Cambodia--which totals to only 10 more days of teaching. Just crazy.

Time for lesson plans--we've been concentrating on a lot of grammar and I think today will be preposition day, describing scenes.

I can't wait to see friends and family in December!
"Lehigh!"

Friday, November 6, 2009

Good Luck To You

So, it's been a while since I've written but not because I haven't wanted to---I just haven't had time!

Last I left you, Val and I were excited for the arrival of our newest volunteer, Karly.

Karly's a 19 year olf photographer from NYC who had spent a couple weeks in Vietnam before coming to Siem Reap.



Unfortunately, though, our new posse only lasted for what, 2 nights? Karly's parents were in a bad car accident so she hurried home to be with the family. That was 2 weeks ago, I think.



The night Karly arrived, Ta, Val, and I went to a free cambodian concert! Some popular Khmer artists performed and one female artist did a cover of "I wanna make love right now na na" (or whatever that song is). Ta freaked when I knew some of the lyrics! I can totally appreciate that the concert was TONS of fun for locals........but, it was all in Khmer...which is a problem. Everyone was laughing at the skits they were doing on stage, though, so i guess it was hilarious. Makes me wish I knew Khmer better. But, I picked up some good local food, got some pictures, and it was my first time having someone ride on the back of my bicycle! I really throws off your balance trying to steer, not to mention there's twice the person to move. And theres no seat! I've since tried to ride on the back of one but yeah..noooooo way. Very uncomfortable and bumpy.

Another ritual Val and I had that definitely didn't suck was our Meridian trips. Two Saturdays in a row we paid a small amount to use the Meridian's (the biggest hotel around's) pool for the day. Those Saturdays were DEFINITELY the most glamerous I've had in 2 and a half months. We justified those days with the fact that we barely wear any makeup, never wear our hair down, bicycle everywhere in 120 degrees, and are generally covered in sweat and dirt every single day. Like you would expect from a huge, huge hotel, the pool was awesome--and sooooo relaxing!



We also went with Ratana to a local school. Not an english school, though. It's a dance school/music school teaching kids how to dance like Apsara and how to play some of the traditional instruments. It was soooo adorable. And we got to try out the instruments for a bit :)



Two Sundays ago, we also had a great day of excursions. Started the morning with the Artisan Center and the Silk Farm. Let me first say that in Cambodia, nearly EVERYTHING is made by hand. And it's hard to appreciate hand made things until you're watching people make them! The Artisan Center was great. They employ deaf kids to make silk paintings, and have a few other sections (carving, drawing, sewing, etc..) for people with other disabilities.
The Silk Farm was really cool cause we got to see the whole process---from worms to scarves! Silk worms are really rather cute and their entire purpose in life is to have babies--lots of babies. We saw them feeding the worms, collecting their silk, dividing the silk into "raw" and "fine", spinning the silk, dying the silk, all the way to weaving scarves to sell in stores all over the country. We even got to try weaving a bit! It. Is. So. Hard. Those ladies (and one guy) rock.


After picking up a few presents we took a long ride to the floating village. I had been there once before with Elderhostle, but not for sunset. And lemme tell ya, it was beautiful.




Life has gone on as normal for the past couple weeks. School has been especially fantastic, though. I did change classes, and I'm glad I did. I still talk to my kids from Sophannara's class every day, but now I get to know even more students. I now work with Bunleap (bun-lee-up) who is much more pleasant, too.

Last weekend we celebrated Halloween at the orphanage!! It was hilarious trying to explain the holiday to them....they were like "so you just dress up and get candy?" It was possibly the most fun I've ever had! ..btw caroline, they LOVE the song i got a feeling :) !! we sang it and danced constantly!



"Trick or Treat!!"

(please note the awesome Kung Fu Panda shorts)

We also did halloween masks at CLFCA...the kids were less into it (which was disappointing) but they seemed to enjoy themselves decently. For CLFCA we had some awesome prizes for scariest mask, prettiest mask, funniest mask, most creative mask, and best overall. The prizes were body jewel sticker things, a watch, fake jordan wrist bands, a miniature globe, and an english khmer dictionary. (Not bad if I do say so myself!) And then, of course, for those who didn't win a prize: candy!!


Another really incredible place that Val and I went last week was the Land Mine Museum:





A sign at the museum said that there were still somewhere between 3 and 6 million land mines hidden in Cambodia, along with "tons" of bombs dropped during the Vietnam War. The museum wasn't fun, but I was really glad we went. It was also really different from the Khmer Rouge museum. That one was actually really eerie. The land mine museum felt much more peaceful--it's in a really green area and the back half of the school has been transformed into a school/dorm room type space for children and teens who have been injured by land mines. There was a big board that had each kid's story on it. I'd never stopped to appreciate that I have hands before.


On a different note, the really big awesomely fun thing that Val and I did this past weekend was go to Laos! Experienced a different culture (although pretty similar to Cambodia) and added another country to my list.




In order to explain how cool it was, lemme just tell you what each day was like:

Woke up at 8 and took a lao tuktuk to an elephant rescue sanctuary. Maynam (our elephant), Val, Cook (our mahout), and I walked through a river, up steep hills, through a little village, down some steep hills, and all around the mountains for about an hour.




After our elephant ride, took a lao speed boat (definitely different than western speed boats...more like just, a fastboat) to a nearby waterfall (the most beautiful waterfall I've ever seen)




After climbing the rocks and playing around for a while, we fastboated back to the elephants, ate a delicious traditional lunch, and then got in our kayaks for the 3 hour trip home--I love kayaking! We went over "rapids" (like level 2 max) and it was so relaxing to kick back in my kayak and float down the Mekong, looking at the clouds. It was so perfect!





And that was just day one! The second day was relax day--got a massage, ate some delicious Lao food, climbed a mountain to watch sunset (and to see the fullest, biggest moon ever), and did a ridiculous amount of shopping.

Day 3 was hiking day. We set off around 9 AM to trek through a small village about an hour outside of Luang Prabang. We trekked for 3 hours through valleys and some jungle, constantly keeping an eye out for monkeys and tigers, until we reached another waterfall and the bear sanctuary-----and we still made it back home in time for a massage :)

(We climbed a boulder; those huts are scattered around the mountain sides for farmers to sleep in or to wait in if there's bad weather; waterfall #2 = awesome)

Also, we had the pleasure our first night in Luang Prabang to meet Tatyana who, for Halloween, was female. (It reminded me a lot of camp haha!!) He was a cute girl, though! Hanging out with these guys for the night (Tatyana was from Iowa, his buddy was from Cali) made me miss Americans quite a bit. But also, they really didn't help our stereotype: loud and obnoxious. Tatyana went up to every male who walked by and asked for a hug. Laos culture is a lot different, remember, and that sort of behavior is really looked down upon.
So, I was torn between laughing hysterically and being embarrassed for my Americanism. Either we were obnoxious or everyone else is stuck up. I think I'll go with the second!



So, we got back from Luang Prabang on Wednesday around 1 and still made it to school by 2. This was Val's last week in Cambodia, so most of our days were spent at the orphanage and saying goodbye at schools. It's kindof a mini-culture shock not having her all of a sudden. I mean, I lived here alone for a month and a half before she got here--i can do it. It's just different..less fun. Also, with her going I realized that I only have 3 weeks left!!

I remember when I first got here thinking to myself, "god i'm gonna be here for 3 MONTHS?!" and now, all i want is more time. I'll be going on one more trip outside of Cambodia, too. I signed up for a gap trip to Thailand for a week that I think is gonna be really awesome. We travel a lot, backpacking, overnight trains, staying with a mountain tribe for two nights, but I think it's gonna be tons of fun! (not to mention, everyone on the trip will speak English so I might make some cool friends) And half of me is SO excited to see another country and eat the food and live how they live......but the other half can't believe I'm leaving my kids. So, I'm gonna buy them some cool present(s)--don't know what yet. Val left CLFCA with some Red Sox stuff and a Boston calendar that they really like. They love looking at pictures of all the snow! To them, snow is magical and mysterious.

Time for bed here--and don't forget, if you were an hour ahead of me, we're now exactly 12 hours apart. If we were the same time, I'm now an hour ahead. Way to go daylight savings...

"Goodnight! Good luck to you! Happy Dreams! Safe Home! Goodbye!"
(typical parting words in Cambodia....no, really.)

"Rea Trey Suo Sudei! Chou'up kuh knee uh t'nigh s'eye!"

p.s. - stay fett, sister!